Wednesday, April 29, 2026

The Otter Trail 2026.02.15

It was about 13 years ago when I came of age. I did my first Otter Trail.

It was also my first hike in which I would carry all I needed for the 5 day trek. 

I went in a bit blase, kicking a can down the road, causally whistling a Beatles tune, while clasping my hands behind my back.
Afterall, who trains when you're a road running machine mad rabid dog?
One guy's wife packed for him, she was surely an accountant, or she loved him dearly.
I guffawed, ha ha ha, and tossed my tuna cans into my backpack, packed a full tube of Colgate, never skimped on the snacks, and even had a change of draws.
That hike, the accountant guy made light of the terrain, navigating it like a stealthy mountain lion, winning each day's hike, hook, line and sinker, and the Yellow jersey.

Back then that hike snapped, snapped me like a toothpick between the teeth of a steroidal Schwarzenegger 

After the hike, I lay on the beach of Nature's Valley, making sand angels, screaming for a beer, screaming ''take me home''.

In the intervening years I got schooled. I did the prep, read the blogs, asked blokes, wore through countless pairs of boots, chafed my thighs, punched animal carcasses till my knuckles bled, and hiked, hiked and more hiked.

I learned to pack light, I learned to eat easy, I learned that I don't need much luxury.
I learned to endure pain, I learned it's short lived, I learned to enjoy it.

This year, 2026, I did it again.

The gruelling hills were still herculean, the coast's razor edge still cut deep.
The stairs were still lunge-large, causing my heart to take a Conor-Macgregor-like beating in the rib cage-fight of its life. 
The sea still crashed hard against the craggy coast-line like Gretzky in a tussle against the ice-rink-barrier, sending white water heavenwards. 

The sun still baked my skin lobster red, then Venezuelan brown.
The Waterfall, hyperbole-high still cascaded down like a champagne castle, into a deep dark icey pool, enticing us to jump in, to cool hot heads, satiating us like an 80's Coke-is-it bottle of Coke. 
Cola-tinted rivers still meander down to the coast, carving up the length of the trail, piercing the ocean, forming the Mouths we need to navigate, to cross.
There in the forests birds still swoop and caw, flutter and twitter, but now they are named Loerie, Warbler, Robin and Flycatcher.
The jet-black Oystercatcher still skims the rolling shore, settling on the rocky beach scuttling along, piercing edibles with its red spear-tipped beak.
Cormorants now, like then, perch upon giant ocean weathered, embedded boulders, swaying and whipping their elongated necks, stalking shiny shimmering fish in the ocean below.
As our headlamps shine a light on the velodrome of the night sky, satellites still zoom upon their predetermined orbit pinging our GPS watches, and self-driving Teslas. 
The Milky Way still drips its heavy light upon the eyes of the curious genet slinking by in its leopard-like pelt, sniffing for a remnant of a rusk, a tomato, or the length of a pot noodle.
This time though the curious otter drew close, sniffing the sea salt air, bobbing and weaving like Ali in the Congo, diving in and amongst the lapping waves, its sleek oily pelt shimmering as the setting sun dips below the horizon.
Rounded, rolling stones still pave the way, clinking as we tread along them. Picking them up, polishing them clean, we pocket them as souvenirs for display alongside bathroom basins. 

With all the years of experience the slice of sweaty cheese on a crispy cracker, a goose-bump-cold shower, a restful sleep on a sticky mattress, black instant in an enamel cup, a change of socks, silence and walking barefoot are now so very pleasurable.

Even though a short jaunt in an uber connects Storms River to Natures Valley, I'd rather take the long journey with my backpack, my snacks and my life's experience.







Sunday, February 22, 2026

The House that Cousin Stephen Built in Graaf Reinet

Hot dog mustard-coloured exteriors, avocado skin-coloured window frames and shutters, rich lime-green grass being freshly mowed, gravel stone and low walls, the backdrop a deep blue sky. This is the house that cousin Stephen F built in Graaff Reinet.

The 3 block homestead sits back giving priority to the stunning garden bursting with purple bougainvillea, cool plunge pools, mirror polished reflecting pools, and gushing fountains that give the desert-like town a lick of liquid. The open shutters allow a cool breeze to circulate through the house, strengthening an indoor/outdoor relationship, reminding me of sunny summer days sat on the bench on the red stoep of my Aunt's Pretoria house. 

One foot inside, one foot outside, the interior floors are Transvaal-house-stoep cool, and the ceilings are laid in bamboo. A cornucopia of items to peruse and ogle. Some utilitarian and others, objets d árt. Picture frames and mirrors and lampshades abound. Watering cans, steel tables and chairs to astound. Dishcloths as fabric and hung as a pair. coral and cushions, and taxidermy, yes, it's real hair. It's a strange kind of wonderment there to enjoy. There's poofs and daybeds and candelabras, skulls and shells and dressers and drawers. There are clay pots and fire places and double swings doors. Mondrian framing, ratte carpets, purple chairs and lipstick red throws. all dazzling as the the flora outside grows,

There are bathrooms, and there are kitchens, there are beds and there are dining areas too. But it's all new and strangely, (not like Dr Seusss) connected by/with/from, through and through. It's busy and it's fresh, its Transvaal and its Karoo. I see you from behind the closet, peekaboo. It's art deco, and it's contemporary, it's desert, and its small town, one would not look out of place with a tea doily and a gown. It's formal, and it's' laissez faire, it's colourful and it's muted, but all the while it's anchored, it's rooted.

It talks in symmetry and it presents organic. It's light, it's airy, it's smooth, it's textured. It's wonderful to keep the eye busy, I don't need to be lectured. You could walk around barefoot all day. or flip flop around all night gazing at the stars. 
Oh It's such a lovely little house in a lovely little town. A town that is everything for every little one.