This isn’t a journey slapping the streets of New York
sniffing out sneakers, nor is it a journey trudging through Finnish snow to get
a glimpse of the feted architect Alvar Aalto’s Paimio Sanatorium, nor is this a
journey about flipping through comic books in downtown Tokyo. This, this is a
journey of understanding. It’s about understanding who I am, where I am, and
where I’ve been.
Rising out of the mall, the masons masterpiece, the pedestrian gates of the Old City, greet me. The Harp player caressing her strings creating memory through her song takes my mind off of the knobbly cobbles beneath my feet and the tourist trinket stores corrupting the treasured experience. Having breached the Old City, my time warp begins, my spirited journey is launched.
I stare with heavy penetrating eyes into the Wall, puncturing history. Working through the onion layers of my thoughts to find my emotion, tears turn me vulnerable. I need to think deeply with much introspection to understand my location in time, in space and in spirit. The ‘hair on the back of my neck’ moment doesn’t materialise, needing to be massaged over time.
For now I leave the Wall behind and rise up and out of this sanctuary heading towards the Yeshiva i’ll be attending for 3 months. Finding the Yeshiva with the help of a printed wall map, I knock, knock, knock on heaven’s door. I’m greeted by the madrich who leads me to the dorm rooms. And so I settle.
I wear no yarmy, no white shirt, and no black pants. But I know I’m in the right place. The seforim which clad the periphery of the Beis Midrash, await my imminent plunge. The structured form of the Gemorah, and the holy black text await the opportunity to become animated. This is G-d’s country, and I’m in it.
The learning frustrates me, it pains me, it’s traumatic, this isn’t fun, but I know this is where I ought to be. The sea is vast, but I’m slowly building a boat that’ll set me journeying through the liquid Torah. Through study I work on myself, building character, awareness. Through speaking to people I gain knowledge about me. Through this experience I hear my mind speak. It’s an extraordinary journey of movements of growth.
Three months might not be enough to resolve Dan, but slowly I’m skinning the apple, revealing, little by little, more of the core. I hope to garner tools with which i can fill my tool bag of life, to be able to negotiate the difficulties and the pleasantries of life’s marvellous musings. What a life. What a journey. This is a story, about a lad named Dan.
I’d chosen to go to Yeshiva Bircas Hatorah in the Old City
having met the Rosh Yeshiva, Rabbi Tagger in the ‘burbs of Joburg, South Africa.
With a hand shake and a smile by the salt-and-pepper bearded, charismatic Rosh,
it was a done deal.
As I narrowed in on my destination, the aroma of coffee and
Israeli chocolate-jammed pastries tugged at my nostrils delivering me to the
entrance of Mamilla Mall, my approach to the Old City. With its bougainvillea shading, sculpture-lined
walkway and documented stones numbered
and consecutively positioned, the city of old reflects the city of new.
The Old City is mangled spaghetti. Weaving my way through the
tight network of hooking streets, the passages, an arms-length in width, tinted
in sandy Jerusalem stone, tower above me huddling me in the city’s grasp. The
narrow streets, coursing like veins, pulsing with people, instances and nuances
pulls me like a gushing pipeline, streaming down past yeshivas, and squares, past
the Hurva, burgerias and pizzerias, plummeting towards the heart centre of the Jewish
people, the Holy Kottel. Pooled at the Western Wall, Jews of all types collide.
Typical, non-typical. Black hat, black yarmie, white yarmie, an army yarmy. A streimel, and a ‘nah nach nachman’ wooly
one, a baseball cap, a crochet and a bowler.
All one nation, unified, spilling their spirit of emotion, turning to
jelly at the Walls sight.
The beauty the city holds in my mind is pummelled as I make
the prerequisite erev shabbis journey to Machane Yehudah, the street market. Here
i’m jolted back into reality. Naive as a pimply teen I head into the bowels of
this food lovers emporium and like a pinball i’m ricocheted from one person to the
next bouncing off aggressive bobbas and over tanned servicemen. My shins splintered,
bruised by pram wielding mommas. Trying to seek a deal on hummus I find myself
forking out more than Israel’s military budget. I’m traumatised, moving
upstream against the clashing crowds, I burst into sunshine, into freedom,
vowing never to repeat the journey again.